There’s no stopping it. Winter is here and for RVers in northern climates, it’s time to winterize.
Making sure your the plumbing system in your RV is protected against the cold is essential and if it’s not done right, serious damage can occur.
There are lots of ways to winterize your Roadtrek. Some Class B RV owners do the bare minimum. Others don’t miss any preventative protection steps.
The first step is to check the manufacturer’s instruction book. If ever in doubt, follow it.
But you may also want to take it to a dealer.
That’s what I did, taking my Roadtrek RS-Adventurous to American RV in Grand Rapids, MI, where I met up with Service Tech Hank Nuiver, who gave my RV the deluxe winterizing package.
We videotaped every step of the process.
Once caution: Hank uses an air compressor to blow out the water from the lines. But he does so at low pressure – 40 to 50 pounds, instead by a pressure regulator. Any pressure more than than, he warns, has the potential to damage parts and fittings.
Something else I appreciate: I can use my RV in the winter. Take fresh water in bottles and when use use the toilet, chase it down with some anti freeze. There’s no problem, says Hank, in camping all winter long.
This video is long, over 16 minutes. But hopefully, it will help you know what to do.
17 Responses to “How to winterize your Roadtrek Class B RV: VIDEO”
Comments are closed.
November 15, 2012at3:23 pm, Tom said:
Folks – don’t forget about the hose end sprayer on the sink if you have one. Have seen the hoses leak/burst under the sink when pressurized after winter. My Class A has 3 lower drain ports – make sure you get them all. The air fittings are available (CAMCO?) at Walmart/Camping World/RV stores and I use a small plug in 12volt compressor for tires/inflatables. If using a larger air compressor, turn your regulator down to about 35psi.
This was a nice video you put together for the “how do I do it” folks. It’s not hard to do – the RV anti-freeze about $3/gallon, my Class A takes about 4. Bypass the wtr heater and fresh water tank.
October 31, 2012at3:19 pm, Mort S. Cohan said:
Well done, I do mine a little different. I flush out the holding tanks with the fresh water and then dump again. As I drive home from the dump station I open the fresh water tank drain and let it completely drain out.
I do like your articles, if you ever get to our beautiful Cape Cod, MA, let me know, I’ll be happy to show you around. The MI beaches and dunes are very nice but the Cape is the real thing!
2007 210 RoadTrek Popular
Falmouth, MA (Cape Cod)
October 31, 2012at1:31 am, Angie O'Malley said:
Mike, Very helpful info. Video is great. Thank you. For now, I think we will continue to have a dealership do it. However, at least, we understand the process now.
October 28, 2012at8:24 pm, les said:
Thanks Mike, We just had our first job done at a dealer. We needed to add a bypass of the hot water heater. Between watching them and your wonderful video, I should be ready for next year.
Thanks for adding the tip about winter usage of the toilet. Keep on treking.
October 28, 2012at8:15 pm, Sandy said:
Mike, thank you so much for making this video-it’s excellent. Being new (4 months and counting) to Ruby our Roadtrek this is exactly what we needed to educate. Love,love,love your blog !
October 28, 2012at6:25 pm, Meryl and Me said:
I should also add, looking at the comments. If you don’t own an air compressor, just skip that step. Many do. Blowing with air is just an added precaution – but if the water lines are filled with antifreeze, they are protected. Also, an alternative to adding antifreeze at the pump is to use a specially made hand pump that connects to the city water intake and let’s you pump from the bottle the same way. This works best with two people – one pumping and one inside opening faucets.
October 28, 2012at6:20 pm, Meryl and Me said:
It is nice to see that both our Roadtrek dealer service centers follow the same process – air then antifreeze.
In the Spring, open the hot water tank again and flush it out with water under very slight pressure – a narrow tube on a fresh water hose end will do it – to get the rest of the sediment out. A lot accumulates on the bottom of the tank and just emptying the tank does not get it out – as I learned the hard way as it found its way into the pipes. You will be surprised to see how much more comes out.
October 28, 2012at8:59 am, Alan MacRae said:
One line that the tech failed to mention, that I think could be an issue is the fill line that allows you to fill your fresh water tank while you’re connected to “city” water. I trust you’re aware of that valve but, in case you’re not, it’s a valve under the right rear passenger seat (by the slider). It’s near the bottom of the fire extinguisher. When you are connected to a water supply, opening this valve will flow water into your fresh water tank to fill it. Since this line is connected to the cold water system, there will be water in the line and, if it freezes, specifically the valve, you’ll have a problem in the spring. I picked up some ideas from the video and will probably implement them tomorrow. I’ve always just dumped 3 gallons of antifreeze into my freshwater tank, but I like the idea of blowing it first. Not sure I’m a big fan of disconnecting the pump as I’ve experienced some “weeping” at those connections before and worked to get them tight. I think a better, and easier solution would be to connect a hose to the city water inlet and pump it from there. Going to play with that a bit if weather and time permit tomorrow. I’ve never had an issue with taste in my fresh water tank as I’m diligent about flushing the tank and the water system along with sanitizing it with bleach, followed by “sweetening” it with a touch of vinegar in the tank afterwards. Always is pretty “spring fresh.” And, for Alex, the antifreeze flushes out very easily and, after you have sanitized your water system in the spring, it’s totally gone.
October 27, 2012at9:09 pm, Alex said:
Sorry , another question, how you going to clean this sticky glycerine in spring ??
November 15, 2012at3:25 pm, Tom said:
?? Have not had any problems with RV/Boat Anti-Freeze. Make sure you are using the PINK RV Safe – can get at WALMART for $2.99/gal.
October 27, 2012at8:49 pm, Alex said:
What is the cost of this cirque du Soleil ?
If you can’t do it your self. Sell your rig ASAP. Dealerships leave you without money and pants in nearest future
Sorry about it……..
October 27, 2012at8:10 pm, Donna said:
thanks for the video, it is very informational!
October 27, 2012at3:48 pm, Larry T said:
I like this video. I don’t own a Roadtrek but I think the same principles apply to my TT. Thanks. Now… how do you keep mice out while it’s in storage during the winter?
November 15, 2012at3:12 pm, Tom said:
Some folks put dryer sheets on top of tires, around areas that mice could come in through, have also heard of putting certain spices. I put the sticky trays for catching them and one of the larger bait traps. Of course make sure all food is out, or in sealed containers they cannot get into.
As an Army Pilot, mice would often climb in our helicopters chewing on the wire insulation while in field locations – now that was interesting when something did not work correctly.
October 27, 2012at3:47 pm, cozygirl said:
Wow like the toilet idea….perfect, maybe I won’t have to wait until Spring now…
October 27, 2012at3:46 pm, Steve Husted said:
On my to-do list this weekend. But I’m wondering if I need to go to a dealer for that as I do not have an air compressor. My impression is all I had to do was empty tanks and pour in some antifreeze.
November 15, 2012at3:07 pm, Tom said:
Hey, do you have small 12 volt plug in compressor with fitting for valve stems, not the air bed type? That will work fine, just may need a 2nd hand for opening the faucets while you hold the compressor.
Just get one of the screw on adapters with the nipple for the air line. Walmart/Camping World etc. should have the fitting, I paid about $2 for mine.